#greg noll surfboards

[yuna542]

[5.]

~The Greg Noll~

Pairing: JJ Maybank x Reader/Oc

Genre: Fluff, Enemies to Lovers, Smut, Angst, Drama, Action

Warnings: Wounds, Banter, None

Taglist: Open

Word count: 2.5K

Summary: The Kook princess is back after a year and reignites the war between Pogues and Kooks on Kildare. But she quickly realizes that after this year, nothing is the same as before. Deception, secrets from the past, and dangerous conspiracies sweep across Kildare, leaving her no choice but to work with the Pogues and her personal nemesis to find the truth and maybe even $8 million. A dangerous treasure hunt begins that turns her world upside down.

Note: Hope you liked it till here. I would be very happy if you‘d write a comment or repost and let me know what you think. Have fun with the new chapter 🫶🏻

Soundtrack:

⏯️Play: Crash My Car by COIN

Walk in like a wrecking ball

The way she moves makes you miserable

All eyes on the golden girl

She's gonna tell ya, gonna tell ya

Fortunately, no one had been in the shed behind the hedge for years.

Not even the gardeners ventured into the unstable old shack. That was exactly why she had always liked to use that place as a hiding place.

Mom knew for a fact that Rick wouldn't bother to set foot in the dusty old ramshackle. The door creaked ominously and rays of sunlight shone through holes in the walls. It looked almost magical.

The smell of dust, wet wood, and earth rose to my nose.

The shed was empty except for a shelf on the wall.

Carefully, I stretched and groped on the top shelf.

I reached into cobwebs and contorted my face in disgust, but I didn't pull my hand back. Not that magical.

That's when I felt the fabric and got a hold of it. With a tug, I was able to grab it completely and pull it off the shelf. Dust swirled up in the bright rays of light, worsening my vision. Coughing I tried to drive the dusty air away from me.

However, all I could do was stare at the large bag in my hand. It was indeed still here.

I walked back out and placed the item upright in front of me. It was by now just a little taller than I was. Tensely, I searched for the zipper and opened it with bated breath. I looked at the surfboard in awe, stroking my fingers over the cool surface.

It looked exactly the same. The Greg Noll had been Mom's treasure. She had learned to surf with this board herself as a young girl and subsequently taught it to me.

The wooden color was crisscrossed by two bright red stripes that stretched across the entire board.

Immediately memories came up in me and my whole body longed for the sea and the high waves.

I only now realized how much I missed the surf trips with Mom. Even though we could only ever practice in secret, because I didn't want anyone to know about it.

It would be my personal downfall if the other Kooks found out that I was practicing a pogue sport and even liked it. Until I found out Topper surfed too and suddenly it was cool to do that...

But at the moment, I didn't care about those Kooks. I just wanted to feel as carefree again as I had only been on the waves.

So I unzipped all the way and jammed the board under my arm.

I looked around the street carefully and then stealthily turned into a sneaky path. A path that led from Figure Eigth directly to the Cut. It was a winding path through the woods, but it was fun to be so spontaneous and free again.

Rick would have torn me apart, but I didn't care at the moment. To him the reputation and the opinion of the others, especially the Island Club had always been more important than my interests and feelings. So I didn't have to consider his either. He wanted me to have good grates, go shopping, tan all day on the yacht or go golfing.

As I heard the surf already from afar, a ton of heavy weight fell from my shoulders.

The white bikini felt pleasantly warm on my skin and when I finally felt the sand under my feet, I automatically quickened my pace until I was running towards the water.

Once in the water, I swung myself onto the board and paddled out. The water cooled my heated skin and I welcomed the taste of salt on my lips like a lost friend.

The first attempts to catch a good breaker were really miserable and it took me forever to regain my balance, but that didn't make it any less fun. The waves weren't very practical today, barely any good barrels, but it was a liberating feeling to finally be back on the board.

As my legs were already shaking with exertion, I laid flat on the board and paddled along the coast. The sun was high in the cloudless sky and warmed my back.

I never wanted to get off the board again and would have loved to paddle around the whole island. At some point I reached the swamp at the Cut, where the paths on the water stretched out like a maze over endless expanses.

Here I had been only very rarely. It was too dangerous for a Pogue to see me there.

Nevertheless, I let myself drift a little and lay on my back. The familiar feel of the surfboard on my skin made me sigh.

The sun's rays shone in my face, making me close my eyes. I let my leg dangle off the board and enjoyed the cool breeze blowing over the water here.

I didn't know if I had been dozing like this for hours or if it had only been minutes, but my body was so relaxed that I could barely open my eyes.

Out here there was no Rafe yelling at me, no Kooks thinking I was the infallible princess, and no Rick condemning everything I did and taking his anger out on me.

Out here it was just me and the swamp. I could just be myself and breathe freely for the first time in days without that oppressive feeling on my chest.

That's when I felt a touch on my leg. Before I could react, a searing pain shot through my body and made me wince violently.

A scream escaped me and the burning evolved into a piercing sting.

I straightened up too quickly and lost my balance.

Panicking, I tried to hold on to the board, but that only made it worse. I toppled over and landed in the water. Gasping, I tried to pull myself back up, and that pain shot through me again, only this time below my shoulder blade, at my ribs.

I gritted my teeth and pulled myself back onto the board with the last of my strength. Panting heavily, I stared at my leg, which was already reddened.

Swollen wounds that looked like burns sat there and I didn't want to know what my back looked like.

Immediately I became angry at myself and wondered how I could be so stupid. I didn't know this area out here and hadn't even read up on jellyfish at this time of the year.

The pain pulsed under my skin and ate its way to my bones.

Seagulls flew overhead screeching loudly as if to mock me.

Now every movement cost an incredible amount of energy, as I had to fight against the drilling pain every time, so that I was exhausted after only a few minutes. Panting, I looked around, but the beach was too far away. Most definitely I wouldn't be able to make it.

I looked around on the water and thought feverishly.

Gradually, I could no longer stand the pain, so I headed for the nearest cove.

Between the dense deciduous trees on the shore was a small pebbly beach that seemed to lead to a sparsely populated area.

I must be somewhere in the middle of the Cut. Reaching the shore, I stumbled through the knee-deep water and dragged my board to the beach. There I laid it on the gravel and struggled up to the meadow behind the beach.

I needed to see where I was and then somehow get home without anyone seeing me.

This was going to be difficult as I could barely stand upright and my leg hurt with every step. The poison started to turn my stomach and I got sick. I looked around and spotted a small path that led to a run-down fishing shack.

In front of it were old ship engines and other junk everywhere that I couldn't name.

Next to the large hut was a smaller shed that must have been a workshop.

Where the hell had I ended up here?

I ran my hands through my hair, panting, trying to keep a clear head.

Fortunately, there didn't seem to be anyone at home who could catch me on their property. To be honest it didn’t look like someone should live in that torn down place anyway.

Now I looked at my leg more closely for the first time and cursed softly. Afraid someone might hear me.

The redness ran down my entire calf.

I would have a hard time hiding that. Immediately I wanted to keep walking, but the pain suddenly triggered dizziness, so I immediately sat down to avoid falling. I could feel the grass under my body and the throbbing on my shoulder had only gotten worse from the salt water.

Then suddenly I heard the rumbling of an engine behind the house. Then silence again. I just sat there and took a deep breath after another and tried with all my might to not throw up.

I couldn't lose control now.

"What has the tide washed up for me?" a taunting voice sounded behind me. I closed my eyes and wanted to sink into the ground as soon as I recognized him. I turned my head and spotted JJ holding a motorcycle helmet in his hands.

He was standing on the terrace of the house, placing the helmet on a plastic table. He must have come through the house to the terrace. So that meant he lived here.

With all the houses all over Kildare, I had to end up at Maybank, of all places.

„Fuck…“, I whispered before I looked at the sky to push the tears back. I kept silent, hoping that maybe he would just disappear, but it was in vain.

He was already coming down the creaking stairs and toward me. So I stood up and bit the inside of my cheek as pain shot through my limbs.

As he came closer, he seemed to recognize me, but not to believe his eyes. A toothpick was stuck in the corner of his mouth, which he casually removed for a moment.

"Diaz?" it escaped him incredulously as he took off his cap, ran his hand through his hair, and put it back on with the shield facing backwards.

"Believe me, if I had known this was your property, I wouldn't have...", I was already starting to justify myself, but at his smug grin, I fell silent.

"What the hell are you doing here, Kook?"

I was already thinking of countless possible lies that could explain my appearance, but his eyes fell already on the board behind me.

He walked past me and looked at it with shining eyes.

"Is that a Greg Noll?" he muttered incredulously, stroking the red stripes. As he did so, he shoved the toothpick back between his teeth.

"Unbelievable... It's in excellent condition. How did you get your hands on such a…“

Astonished, his gaze now wandered back to me and his expression became inquiring. I felt like a kid who had been caught stealing.

"You surf?" he asked with such an incredulous tone that it was starting to offend me.

"Every now and then," I muttered, since there was no point in lying now.

"I don't believe that... The Kooks' princess surfs like a pogue," JJ exclaimed, circling me.

I had a hard time following him, but I couldn't let him see my back. After all I didn't want any help from a pogue and besides, I was ashamed of my stupidity.

"If you tell anyone, you're dead."

Threateningly, I glowered at him, but he didn't make a face.

"No one would believe me anyway," he countered, taking a step toward me. I wanted to back away, but my leg hurt too much.

A soft gasp escaped me, whereupon the grin disappeared from his face. His gaze wandered searchingly over my features and he seemed to notice that I was studiously avoiding turning my back to him.

"What's wrong? You look like a ghost."

Sweat stood on my forehead and I was sure there was sand in the wound on my shoulder.

"Nothing," I pressed out, but the golden-haired didn't believe me.

He grabbed me by the arm and jerked me around. I almost cried out in pain, but bit my tongue at the last moment.

"Shit, did a jellyfish get you? Is that why you docked here? That looks terrible! It must hurt like crazy."

I turned back to him, wanting to scratch his eyes out.

"Yeah, obviously. Now leave me alone so I can finally get out of here."

He took a few steps back again.

"Do you even know how to treat a sting like that?"

He took the toothpick out of his mouth and flicked it away.

"I'll think of something," I hissed venomously.

He just raised his hands defensively and let me pass.

"I won't stop you."

Limping, I walked over to my board and tried to pick it up, but as soon as I bent down, the sting shot from my rib, over my shoulder, and into my chest, causing me to slump.

Before I hit the ground, however, he caught me and pulled me back to my feet by my waist.

"Are you sure you can do this by yourself? You can't even stand on your own. Those wounds should be treated before they get infected."

He looked at me and I expected him to laugh and scoff, but instead he really looked like he was worried. About me? Never.

Only for a tiny moment before he eyed me up and down and put on another smarmy grin.

Only now did I notice that he was still holding me in his arms. His hand was firmly on my hip and I was propped up against his chest.

Since he was only wearing an unbuttoned shirt that was way too big, I could feel his warm skin and his heartbeat right under my fingertips.

Angrily, I slapped his hand away and fixed him.

"And you want to help me or what?"

JJ just shrugged and buried his hands in the pockets of his pants.

"I could help you if you asked me nicely."

Provocatively, he looked me straight in the eye.

I was getting more and more irritated, and if I hadn't been hurt, I would have slapped him in the face long ago.

"Are you serious?", I snapped at him.

"You want me to get down on my knees and beg you?"

JJ grinned suggestively and raised his eyebrows. Immediately, I regretted my choice of words.

"Well, I definitely wouldn't mind you on your knees, of course."

He came closer again and clasped his hands behind his head.

"But for starters, a simple please will do."

Annoyed, I snorted, but I was beginning to realize that I did indeed need his help.

Even if I somehow got home, I wouldn't be able to fix myself up.

I couldn't let Sarah and Rafe know either, since Rick was home and that's where my cell phone was.

And I could never get to Figure Eigth alone in this condition.

Waiting, the Pogue looked at me and smirked in amusement.

"All right. Please help me," I pressed out, spitting out each word like poison.

He put his hands down and was now grinning broadly.

"There you go. Was that really so hard?," he replied, and without asking, slid his arm around my waist.

Perplexed, I clung to him as he simply lifted me bridal style and carried me up to the house.

As if I weighed nothing, he ran up the stairs and my face flushed with embarrassment. His defined abs were pressed tightly against my torso and I had to take my eyes off those sky blue eyes, before I would loose my mind.

© Yuna542 — 𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭𝐬 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐞𝐫𝐯𝐞𝐝.

[theboardroomsurfshow]

🏄‍♂️ 𝙑𝙞𝙣𝙩𝙖𝙜𝙚 𝙎𝙪𝙧𝙛𝙗𝙤𝙖𝙧𝙙𝙨 𝘼𝙬𝙖𝙞𝙩 – 𝘾𝙡𝙖𝙞𝙢 𝙔𝙤𝙪𝙧 𝙎𝙪𝙧𝙛 𝙏𝙧𝙚𝙖𝙨𝙪𝙧𝙚 𝙉𝙤𝙬! 𝘼𝙪𝙘𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 𝙞𝙨 NOW OPEN!

🌊 Get Ready! California Gold Surf Auction Starts in 2 Days! 🌊 The countdown is on for an event that celebrates the art and heritage of surfing. We’re excited to offer you a curated collection of rare surfboards and memorabilia that embody the spirit of wave riding. As pioneers in surfboard auctions, our platform delivers 24/7 access to collectors, ensuring you never miss a chance to bid on these priceless pieces of surf history. With millions in sales and a reputation for excellence, we’re your gateway to owning one-of-a-kind surfcraft. Join us and capture your piece of the past! 🏄‍♂️

Here’s a sneak peek at some of the featured boards:

1995 Michael Diffenderfer Hanalei Bay Balsa Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9BW0QE/1995-michael-diffenderfer-hanalei-bay-balsa-gun

1997 Michael Diffenderfer Surfboards Hawaii Elephant Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9CTKCO/1997-michael-diffenderfer-surfboards-hawaii-elephant-gun

1997 Mark Andreini's Personal Redwood & Balsa Ranch Longboard

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9GQ893/1997-mark-andreinis-personal-redwood-balsa-ranch-longboard

2002 Greg Noll Spalted Alder Jose Angel Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9DGU86/2002-greg-noll-spalted-alder-jose-angel-gun

1968 Hansen Cardiff 50/50 Orange-Pink Fusion

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNKN4/1968-hansen-cardiff-5050-orange-pink-fusion

2004 Hobie Alter Hand Shaped Balsa Longboard

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9DRQKC/2004-hobie-alter-hand-shaped-balsa-longboard

1968 Harbour Rapier Stringerless Pintail

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNSLO/1968-harbour-rapier-stringerless-pintail

2002 Phil Edwards Hobie Classic Balsa Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9E0P5L/2002-phil-edwards-hobie-classic-balsa-gun

2004 Donald Takayama Wine Barrel Redwood Hotcurl

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNVSW/2004-donald-takayama-wine-barrel-redwood-hotcurl

1987 Eddie Aikau / Quiksilver Big Wave Posters

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9IC5T3/1987-eddie-aikau-quiksilver-big-wave-posters

1970 Dick Brewer / Buzzy Trent's Personal Elephant Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9JTCLV/1970-dick-brewer-buzzy-trents-personal-elephant-gun

2001 Andy Irons' Personal Eric Arakawa Pipeline Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9JSO41/2001-andy-irons-personal-eric-arakawa-pipeline-gun

*California Gold Surf AuctionFall 20024MASTERPIECES*

Bidding begins Saturday October 5th at 5pm PST.Lots begin closing Saturday October 19th at 5pm PST

📖  *Full auction catalog to peruse at:  https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com*

REGISTER.BID.WIN.

ℹ️📋 More Info:https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.comhttps://facebook.com/californiagoldsurfauction.com

California Surf Auction Details:

An incredible selection of premium, top shelf, vintage & modern classics from the icons of surfing history.

MASTERPIECES - FALL 2024STARTS: OCT 5, 2024 AT 5 PM PDT • CLOSING OCT 19, 2024 AT 5 PM PDT

[konaboyshawaiioceantours]

Bid for Glory: Pat Curren's Waimea Bay Elephant Gun at California Gold S...

In the annals of surfing history, a legendary chapter unfolds as California surf pioneers redefine the North Shore, usurping Makaha as the ultimate big-wave capital. This daring collective grew in number annually, marked by heightened confidence and an unwavering spirit of informality. Far from stern athletes, these Californian surfers embodied a fraternity on spring break, engaging in audacious antics.

Perched on Waimea Falls' cliff edge, they double-dared each other into 60-foot leaps, indulged in mud-sliding down pig trails during rain, and ignited mouthfuls of lighter fluid for amusement. Shirtless and carefree, they stole chickens, played poker, and embraced bodily sounds echoing their canned beans diet. Among these pioneers was Pat Curren, a melancholic boardmaker from La Jolla.

Curren's impact resonated as he transformed a beachfront house into the famed "Mead Hall," a Norse-inspired hub of camaraderie. Despite his reserved demeanor, he'd don thrift-shop Viking helmets, leading raucous mead-fueled meals in a broken Old English-surfer dialect. Collaborating with Greg Noll, Curren emerged as a leader in the North Shore's pioneering era.

His mechanical prowess, honed from a diverse background as a draftsman, carpenter, and underwater repairman, elevated him further. Specialized in crafting big-wave boards, his 12-foot balsa pintails became artistic weapons, refining the finned big-wave surfboard pioneered by Downing and Quigg.

    #WaveRidingHistory #SurfAuction2024 #patcurren

[surfersboards]

ＴＨＩＮＫ　ＢＩＮＧ　ＰＡＲＴ２　動画 １９５９年からスタートしたＢＩＮＧも今年で６０周年を迎え、記念ボードやグッズを発表し、益々目が放せないブランドです！ この動画も、３部作のパート２。グレッグ・ノールやマイク・イートンといった大御所がコメントしています！ 約18分の長さの中に、60年間の歴史がギッシリと詰まっています！

『ＳＵＲＦＥＲ’Ｓ』

[rileybalsa]

Check out this letter by Barry Bennett in 1960 sent to Greg Noll. He asks him for some tips and tricks on building balsa boards in Australia because the balsa pigs are selling like hotcakes and Barry wants to develop faster. (at Balsa Surfboards Riley) https://www.instagram.com/p/CFWasF1n_Ez/?igshid=a2h6ri27q5hh

[shredsledz]

Shred Sledz Presents: Mid-Week Grab Bag

Greetings, Shredderz! As always, here’s a little selection of some cool boards you can find for sale online.

Bing Bonzer on Craigslist (San Diego)

This thing is 8′4″ and it’s got all the cool branding you would expect from this unique Campbell Bros / Bing collaboration. However, there’s some discoloration going on. Check out the Bonzer-branded glass on fins, though!

Greg Noll Mini Gun on Craigslist (Sarasota, Florida)

This thing is pretty trashed, honestly. I don’t think it’s worth buying. Nonetheless, it includes a good close up picture of the Mini Gun logo. More than anything else this is a great opportunity to share some cool older surfboard logos. Click through only if you won’t be triggered by the sight of a collectible surfboard that has been abused throughout its lifetime.

Greg Noll 1950s Longboard on Craigslist (San Diego)

This board is no spring chicken either. Same deal with the other Greg Noll board listed above -- just look at the cool logo. This is a rare variant that has Noll holding a camera while riding (you can see that it actually rads “Surf boards and film productions.”) One interesting tidbit is that Stoked-n-Board has the filming logo corresponding to the late 50s, but the actual green logo as being in the 1960s.

Daytona Formula V on Craigslist (West Palm Beach, Florida)

This is a really cool looking vee bottom board. I don’t think Daytona was a particularly notable Florida label, but I’ve never seen one of these before. It’s in decent condition, maybe a little pricey at $300, but I love these cool vee bottom transitional boards.

Skip Frye Gordon & Smith Longboard on Craigslist (San Diego)

If you’re wondering why the link is missing...this thing was taken down very quickly! Someone jumped on this bad boy. It was going for $500. I couldn’t get a good idea of the condition but I tend to think these boards are quite collectible.

[srftoy]

Boards

[sohannabarberaesque]

Moth Mondays with the Funtastic World of Hanna-Barbera: Hair Bear “himself” of the Hair Bear Bunch

In effect, a “Now It Can Be Told” sort of story explaining how the Hair Bear Bunch found salvation, so to speak, in surfing--and from as unlikely a channel as it would get, which will be made clear:

It almost sounds like one of those “whatever happened to--?” type stories on those entertainment news shows ... but it turned out to have something of a fortunate ending which benefitted us in particular. I suppose you still recall that debacle which one “Twinkles Sunshine” had with those cheesy Goldilocks movies as had us attempt to replace the fursuited humans playing the role of the three bears, only to face a few life-changing issues rather serious themselves not too long afterward ...

Well, to business (as it were): The scene is Malibu. The time, a few years after the near-hilarious row as would ruin the whole Goldilocks movie franchise, the one that Square Bear, the dopey-looking one, was an especially big fan of--and by which time, you might say, the gates of the Wonderland Zoo were left open. Square ran his legendary Invisible Motorcycle, in its defiance of physics and all else, up Pacific Coast Highway one otherwise sunny, yet boring, Saturday morning, practically before the crowds started coming to Malibu and Boardrider beaches ... and parking in a side street off PCH, we couldn’t resist the desire for some breakfast at a modest little diner somehow known mostly to locals. And having been seated, with some coffee practically ready and waiting for us, we were caught off our guard when this attractive-looking beach gal--a certain dead ringer for Gidget, if you still recall the type--came to our table.

We almost didn’t recognise her at first, what with her curls of younger days having been replaced by the California Beach Babe look ... and her voice, too; we barely recognised it, what with the realisation that her voice must’ve broke in the intervening years.

“Are you sure that is Twinkles Sunshine?!!” was how Square asked it when she first noticed us by our table. To which she responded, “Are you really the Hair Bear Bunch? I admit I’ve heard a lot about you here and there all these years!”

I responded, “That we are!”

She let out a modest little chuckle and mentioned that it had certainly been some while, whereupon she left a card noting where she was Sylvia Barbanna, Surfer Gal Extraordinaire--Private Surfing Lessons By Appointment, Cowards a Speciality (”I could meet you out front after breakfast” was what she added in so handing us the card). Bubi, as you could expect, got rather hyped up and overanxious about the prospect of seeing a real live California surfer gal and spending a day on the beach, which, inevitably, compelled Square to put his paw over Bubi’s mouth when things got a little too absurd.

Once breakfast was out of the way, we crossed paths again with the former “Twinkles Sunshine,” who had now gone by her real name, Sylvia Barbanna (”That ‘Twinkles Sunshine’ was a studio thing my parents played along with”) ... and went for the SoCal tie-dye “tankini” look and beach-blonde-without-peroxide long hair. And walking towards the beach, Sylvia explained that, once her voice broke, that was basically the end of “Twinkles Sunshine” as we knew her; the studio had to release her from her contract, they barely broke even selling the films to television, and her parents were killed in an auto accident, meaning, absent “fit and proper” relatives, she went into foster care and the obscurity of sorts expected from such a life.

Were it not for the foster parents encouraging her to take up such interesting pursuits as surfing and diving, and finding some rather like-minded people towards those ends ... and by the time she turned 18, at which point she was able to access the trust funds established for her back when she was “Twinkles Sunshine,” she was able to get a couple of modest beach houses, one on Catalina Island and another in Malibu. As well as begin teaching surfing, especially on the legendary Malibu Longboard, in Malibu itself.

Given Malibu’s storied big-wave conditions, a bigger-than-average surfboard had to be developed out of necessity ... and so, in the mid-1950′s, just as surfing began to take off in a way, the Malibu board got developed by Greg Noll, himself a legendary surfer and surfboard builder, to make sense of Malibu’s large waves. And standing against these behemoths of the waves, you could just imagine yourself feeling small in comparison.

I admit that for the three of us, the idea of us riding the same longboard, made of fibreglass foam for the most part (although earlier versions were made of balsa wood), was intriguing ... although Sylvia felt, with a natural patience as comes in the surfing sorority, each of us needed separate instruction first. And while it took a little time to master that procedure of entering a wave known as “the duck dive,” that brief bit underwater as we got into the wave must have certainly felt refreshing in itself ... and yet managed to hold on to the board in the face of a seven-footer until I splashed down barely a thousand feet from shore.

“Not bad for a first attempt, Hair,” was how Sylvia expressed it. I took it grinning and rather casual ... which, when it came down to it, was the beginning of nearly a week’s camping time with Sylvia learning that unique take on that Polynesian contribution to the sporting world. And a wonderful time it would get to be, its climax being when we three bears managed to ride in a ten-footer on the same board to shore, with some dolphins tagging along, just as sunset came along in its legendary golden presence.

For us three bears, as much as for the former “Twinkles Sunshine,” there couldn’t have been a more wonderful quasi-reunion as turned out being rather welcome. Even learning surfing.

“... and that’s the story from The Moth”

(The preceding is an independent fanfic feature having no official connexion or association with The Moth. For more information, please to visit their website ... and tune in to The Moth Radio Hour weekends on your local public radio station; check your local radio listings for the day and time.)

@warnerarchive @hanna-barbera-land @warnerbrosentertainment @hanna-barbera-blog @hanna-barberians

[a-fit-family-blog]

The Value of Sports for Children

Sports create many positives for children where accomplishments lead to greater goals of success combined with respect, friendly competition, fairness, bravery, teamwork,  camaraderie and my favorite - keeping them away from technology!  Seeing your young children training their bodies and minds through hard, vigorous sacrifice, pushing the envelope for more stamina and fitness, is incredible by itself.  Then, after all their commitment and drive for success, watching them score the winning goal or standing on a stage holding a trophy, makes you feel so proud.  Even in defeat, you see them hold their heads high, shake hands with the victors, and show respect.  These are life’s most important lessons coming through sports and competition.

Learn about our “passion for sports” in our new book - A Fit Family “Our Road to Happiness” - an ebook at Amazon.  Here’s an excerpt on “The Value of Sports”  from our book:

I’ve always enjoyed the sports, where you are at one with nature, like surfing in the power of waves, sailing with the forces of wind or skiing and snowboarding on white, pristine snow.  No smells of petrol or noisy engines - just pure nature.  I remember when I was 12 years old and my mother put me in a summer, sailing course, at the Sea Scout base, in beautiful Newport Harbor.  The first time I got into the Lido 14 sailboat, and took off solo, I was in awe.  The wind picked up, the sails went taut, the boat lifted and started heeling on one rail, and took off like a rocket.  I was hiking out on the high windward rail, thinking the boat was going to capsize.  I was hooked!  I went home and told my dad I wanted a sailboat.  Another great memory was surfing my first wave at Doheny Beach, California.  I was on a very long, Greg Noll surfboard, and rode a wave all the way to the sand.  It was another moment that changed my life.  I paddled out and rode wave after wave.  A surfer was born that day!

So, I taught my boys, at the age of six, how to surf, in the tropical waters of Phuket, Thailand.  We just headed to the beach, early in the morning, with my old surfboard, so it didn’t cost anything except my time.  Best of all, I turned my boys onto one of my favorite activities, which will stay with them their whole life, and we can share the excitement together.  I was completely rewarded a few years later when I took off on a beautiful wave and as I turned into the face, my son was also on the same wave in front of me.  He yelled out, “Dad, a father son wave”, and as we came together, we high fived while riding the wave.  It’s a moment etched into my memory forever.  Now, at 14, he can ride big waves and he recently stated, “ Dad, now I can take off on any wave you ride”.

Here’s a link to the book: https://www.amazon.com/Fit-Family-Our-Road-Happiness-ebook/dp/B07DPKMTBJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531119914&sr=8-1&keywords=a+fit+family+our+road+to+happiness

[theboardroomsurfshow]

Masterpieces of Surfing on the Block – Auction Starts October 7th

MASTERPIECES Fall 2024 - California Gold Surf Auction 🏄‍♂️ Ready to add a masterpiece to your surf collection? The California Gold Surf Auction is back with one-of-a-kind surfboards and memorabilia, trusted by top collectors since 2013. With over $3M in combined sales, this year’s event will feature iconic items like the 1930s Wave Riders Santa Monica Hand Plane and the 1997 Greg Noll Mickey Dora Floral Da Cat. Featuring 40-50 rare boards and 25+ vintage items, the auction opens October 5th and wraps October 19th. Your dream surfboard is just a bid away!

*California Gold Surf Auction Fall 20024 MASTERPIECES*

Bidding begins Saturday October 5th at 5pm PST. Lots begin closing Saturday October 19th at 5pm PST

📖  *Full auction catalog to peruse at:  https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com*

REGISTER.BID.WIN.

ℹ️📋 More Info: https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com https://facebook.com/californiagoldsurfauction.com

California Surf Auction Details:

An incredible selection of premium, top shelf, vintage & modern classics from the icons of surfing history.

MASTERPIECES - FALL 2024 STARTS: OCT 5, 2024 AT 5 PM PDT • CLOSING OCT 19, 2024 AT 5 PM PDT

1997 Michael Diffenderfer Surfboards Hawaii Elephant Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9CTKCO/1997-michael-diffenderfer-surfboards-hawaii-elephant-gun

1997 Mark Andreini's Personal Redwood & Balsa Ranch Longboard

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9GQ893/1997-mark-andreinis-personal-redwood-balsa-ranch-longboard

2002 Greg Noll Spalted Alder Jose Angel Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9DGU86/2002-greg-noll-spalted-alder-jose-angel-gun

1968 Hansen Cardiff 50/50 Orange-Pink Fusion

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNKN4/1968-hansen-cardiff-5050-orange-pink-fusion

2004 Hobie Alter Hand Shaped Balsa Longboard

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9DRQKC/2004-hobie-alter-hand-shaped-balsa-longboard

1968 Harbour Rapier Stringerless Pintail

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNSLO/1968-harbour-rapier-stringerless-pintail

2002 Phil Edwards Hobie Classic Balsa Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9E0P5L/2002-phil-edwards-hobie-classic-balsa-gun

2004 Donald Takayama Wine Barrel Redwood Hotcurl

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9HNVSW/2004-donald-takayama-wine-barrel-redwood-hotcurl

1987 Eddie Aikau / Quiksilver Big Wave Posters

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9IC5T3/1987-eddie-aikau-quiksilver-big-wave-posters

1970 Dick Brewer / Buzzy Trent's Personal Elephant Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9JTCLV/1970-dick-brewer-buzzy-trents-personal-elephant-gun

2001 Andy Irons' Personal Eric Arakawa Pipeline Gun

https://auctions.thevintagesurfauctions.com/lots/view/1-9JSO41/2001-andy-irons-personal-eric-arakawa-pipeline-gun

[factmr-blog]

Surfboard Market Analysis- Size, Share, Growth, Industry Demand, Forecast, Application Analysis To 2027

A latest research report titled as “Surfboard Market Forecast, Trend Analysis & Competition Tracking - Global Review 2018 to 2027” has been recently added to the vast portfolio of Fact.MR online research offerings. This report is a professional and in-depth analysis on the present state and future prospect for the global market. It provides valuable information to the industry insiders, potential entrants or investors. It includes an exhaustive enquiry with the reliability of logic and the comprehensiveness of contents.

Request TOC of this Report- https://www.factmr.com/connectus/sample?flag=T&rep_id=422

Surfboard is the sports equipment used for surfing. It is flat, light in weight but strong platform which can give enough support to individuals while surfing on oceans. Surfboards were first invented in ancient Hawaii where the equipment was known by the name of ‘papa he'e nalu’ in the local language. Traditional surfboards were made of a certain type of wood obtained from the local trees and were exceptionally heavy and lengthy. However, modern days surfboards are light in weight but with a strong surface to balance the surfer even on a high tide. These boards are made of foam from polystyrene or polyurethane with layers of epoxy and polyester resins.

Surfboard Market- Drivers

One of the significant factors which is fuelling the growth of the global surfboard market is a growing interest in surfing. Surfing gives good upper body workouts apart from strengthening leg muscles. Surfing is a great cardiovascular exercise and it also removes mental stress. An increasing heath awareness about surfboarding is creating a positive impact on the surfboard market growth. Surfing is an economy sport. Surfers do not need expensive equipment. Moreover surfing boards are easy to carry, and this factor attracts a large number of people to surfing, which is obviously supporting the growth of the global surfboard market. A growing craze for adventure especially among youngsters is a favorable factor for the growth of the surfboard market across the world. Establishment of various surf parks with artificial waves across the globe is expected to further increase the demand for surfboards. In TV shows and movies, surfing is portrayed as a cool and trendy hobby; as a result, more number of people across the globe are looking to take surfing lessons during their vacation. This trend is boosting the growth and development of the surfboard market.

Browse Report- https://www.factmr.com/report/422/surfboard-market

Surfboard Market- Restraints

The most important factor which is hampering the growth of the surfboard market is the risk involved in the sport. Surfboard drowning, injuries, collision among a large crowd of travelers are some of the dangers associated with surfing. Increasing incidents of surfing hazards is expected to create a negative impact on the surfboard market. Further, learning and getting trained in the sport of surfing is a relatively costly affair. Paying a hefty sum of fees to the surfing instructor is preventing people from learning surfing, thereby negatively affecting the growth of the surfboard market. Climate change and its impact is also likely to create a negative impact on the surfboard market.

Surfboard Market- Regional Overview

Places such as Australia as well as Western European countries including France and Jeffreys Bay in South Africa are some of the favorite spots for surfing. These countries attract a large number of surfing tourists every year particularly in summer. Consequently, the surfboard market in these regions is mature and flourishing by the day. Governments in these regions are promoting surfing tourism, which is anticipated to create high growth opportunities for the surfboard market.

Surfboard Market- Top Manufacturers Across the Globe

Aloha in Sydney, Beach Boat in Cornwall, Bear Surfboards in Milan, BIC, Channel Islands/Al Merrick. Firewire, G&S, Greg Noll, Hawaiian Island Creations, Hot Buttered, Lost Surfboards by Mayhem, Maurice Cole, McTavish, NSP, Pukas, Rusty, Spyder, Town and Country, Superbrand, JS Industries, Donald Takayama, Formula Energy, DVS Surfboards, and Stacey Surf are some of the top manufacturers of surfboards across the globe.

Pre-book Global Surfboard Market Forecast Report- https://www.factmr.com/checkout?rep_id=422&ltype=S

About Fact.MR

Fact.MR is a fast-growing market research firm that offers the most comprehensive suite of syndicated and customized  Sports market research reports. We believe transformative intelligence can educate and inspire businesses to make smarter decisions. We know the limitations of the one-size-fits-all approach; that's why we publish multi-industry global, regional, and country-specific research reports.

Contact Us

Fact.MR Suite 9884 27 Upper Pembroke Street, Dublin 2, Ireland Telephone: +353-1-6111-593 Email: sales@factmr.com/ Web: https://www.factmr.com/

[surfersboards]

ＴＨＩＮＫ　ＢＩＮＧ　ＰＡＲＴ１　動画 １９５９年からスタートしたＢＩＮＧも今年で６０周年を迎え、記念ボードやグッズを発表し、益々目が放せないブランドです！ この動画も、３部作のパート１。グレッグ・ノールやマイク・イートンといった大御所がコメントしています！

『ＳＵＲＦＥＲ’Ｓ』

[welzie-art]

Welzie's Top 10 Surf Artist

As a lifelong artist, surfer and surfboard builder, I have kept my eyes on the Surf Art Scene for almost 20 years. This is my top 10 Surf Artists that you should know if you're into Surf Art. Although there is many talented artists out there in the Surf Art world, here are the ones that had the most impact and inspiration on my own Surf Art.

Drew Brophy

Heather Brown

Rick Griffin

Thomas Campbell

Andy Davis

Clark Little

Hilton Alves

Eric Able

Kevin Butler

John Van Hamersvel

1. Drew Brophy

     Pretty Much the guy who sent me down the path of surf art, Posca Pens and drawing on surfboards. I came across his work in my teens, I was making art and boards at the time and straight up copied each one of Brohpy’s graphic designs. I would cut out the boards in the Surfer Magazine Board Buyers Guide with his work and practice and practice his lines and images. His work is probably the most well known surf artist out there. Thank you Drew Brophy for inspiring me for decades!

More Information At: http://drewbrophy.com

2. Heather Brown

     Heather Brown has had the most impact on my art career. I had seen her art around the North Shore for years and finally was approached by “The Godmother of Surf Art” about doing a collaboration surfboard, Two Crows Surfboards x Heather Brown, I was stoked. Seeing her studio and operation for me was a game changer. I had always been making art, but from a naive perspective that I had to be dead and broke for the art to be legit. This is not the case and seeing what she has accomplished has driven me to make more art and share it with more people. Thank you Heather for all the inspiration!

More Information At: https://www.heatherbrownart.com

3. Rick Griffin

(June 18, 1944 – August 18, 1991)

The first surf artist I started recognizing. In fact I remember pulling out an page of The Surfers Journal that had one of Griffins old ads for Greg Noll Surfboards in the 1960’s. I framed the page and hung on my wall and copied his loose movements for the next 6 months. He was so prolific and captured the free spirit of the surfing subculture. A current artist who really reminds me of Griffins work is Yusuke Hanai from Japan. Worth checking out if you like Griffin’s work.

More Information At: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_Griffin

4. Thomas Campbell

 I started noticing Thomas Campbell’s work in my late teens, watching his surf movies and seeing his art around. His script work really impressed me and made me loosen up a lot in my work. Watching his art I realized I didn't have to do it like someone else, I just had to do it what came natural. I practiced cursive script for years during college, creating pages and pages of unreadable notes of script. Campbell’s work is really fun and playful and there is a lot of funny quirky saying in his work which I really like.

More Information At: http://www.thomascampbell-art.com

5. Andy Davis

Such a surf artist. His bright colors, smooth lines and iconic images just scream Southern California Surf Culture. He has been creating for years and his work has been shown through the surf industry with collaborations with all the top brands. Just good clean fun surf art.

More Information At: http://andydavisdesigns.com

6. Clark Little

The only photographer on my list, but his viewpoint is one that surfers around the world chase every day. His work is copied by thousands of photographers now which really tells you he is doing something right. Clark Little’s success has really inspired me and gave me confidence that even though we are way out here on the North Shore of Oahu, we can still make our way in the world of art.

More Information At: https://clarklittlephotography.com

7. Hilton Alves

I mean no one else does bigger better perfect waves than Hilton Alves. Every surfer can see themselves in one of his paintings or has dreamed about it. His 101 perfect waves murals are so cool and I think Hilton is going to the moon with his artwork. What’s a Top 10 list of surf artists without the master wave painter?

More Information At: https://www.101perfectwaves.com

 8. Kevin Butler

Rad Cars with Surfboards on them

 “Snuggles” we called him growing up in Santa Cruz. We had a crew of guys who drank beers and came up with silly ideas in my backyard while listing to Outcast in High School. Kevin was a part of the crew (DTC) and has had such a successful career as a creator for all the largest companies. His Rad Cars with Surfboards on them is so cool and unique and I think every surfer can relate to his simple yet nostalgic imagery of rad cars, with surfboards on them. So brilliant!

More Information At: http://radcarswithradsurfboards.tumblr.com

9. Eric Abel

I learned about Eric Able’s work through the Wyland Galleries here on Oahu and have fallen in love with his loose but techy designs of waves and the surfers natural environment. His color pallet and style just go so well together and really remind me of the cold waters of Norther California. 

More Information At: http://www.abelarts.com

10. John Van Hamersvel - Endless Summer Poster

Though he would not specifically be a surf artist, his work is known to every surfer. The cover poster to Endless Sumer has to be one of the most Iconic surf images of all time. The Movie poster hung in my room as a kid for years and his use of bright colors contrasting the black silhouettes of a couple surfers standing with boards makes everyone feel like they want to be there on the beach. 

More Information At: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Van_Hamersveld

[carvingnostalgia]

Greg Noll's shop, also of Hermosa Beach, CA.

[shredsledz]

Friday Round Up

Hope this weekend is bringing the global Shredderz community some tasty waves. In the meantime, we’re experimenting with a new format. Instead of going super deep on specific boards and shapers, we’ll be presenting a grab bag of cool boards you can currently find for sale online.

Takayama 7′0″ egg on Craigslist (San Diego)

Not cheap at $1200, but it’s in great condition and has a cool acid paint job on the deck. It’s hard to see the signature but it looks right to me. Looks like a 90s Donald hand shape, and it has some cool egg logos to boot.

Stussy Shortboard on eBay

Don’t be fooled by the initial picture -- this thing is trashed, and it’s in pretty sorry condition. But hey, it’s always a delight to come across these boards. It’s currently <$200, so it could even be a rescue project for the right person. The only downside of looking at boards like this one is getting worked up over the fact no one took better care of it...but I digress.

Greg Noll board on Craigslist (Florida)

This one is priced fairly, which is to say, out of the price range for what Shred Sledz pays its overworked and underappreciated employees. Then again, they don’t come up for sale very often, so check it out before it moves into some weirdo collector’s giant air-sealed garage.

W.A.V.E. hollow board on Craigslist (New York)

I’ve written about these boards before, and they are a real trip. W.A.V.E. boards were created by Tom Morey and Karl Pope back in the 70s, and they featured a hollow, chambered design. This one looks to be in great condition, and it also has a gorgeous example of a 70s rainbow fin, which you can see in the pic below. It’s not cheap at $500, but oh well.